DIY Toddler Bed

Big changes are happening in our household!  My twin toddlers are about to turn 3 next month and we have decided its time to get them out of their cribs.  They currently share a room, not because we don't have extra bedrooms in the house but because they actually prefer to be together.  We knew this had the potential to cause problems once they were able to "run free" but took the chance anyway.  Keep reading to find out how I created these adorable toddler beds for the kids!

First I went to Home Depot and purchased the wood that I would need.  I love Home Depot because they will cut it for you with their huge saw, making nice straight lines and allowing it to fit in my vehicle.  I measure the crib mattress and allowed for an extra room on the sides so that it wasn't snug.  I purchased a 3/4" thick sheet of 4x8 plywood.  Home Depot made the cuts for the bed bottom and the cute little headboard.  I also purchased 1x6" boards for the sides of the bed, making sure there was enough to go around the perimeter of the bed bottom.  2x4s were also needed as well, I used this to support the bottom piece of the bed.  I already had some on hand so I didn't need to buy any.  Since I have twins I had to make two, so this is what I ended up with:

Once home, I measured the bottom piece of the bed and cut the 1x6" boards with a miter saw to fit around the edges.  Once they were all lined up nicely (measure twice cut once - believe me when I say this so that you don't have to make another trip to Home Depot like I did) I measured the length I would need to cut the 2x4 supports.  I used two for mine, and felt like it was definitely sturdy, but you could always use more.  I then laid the frame and supports out on the floor without the floor board in it.

To secure the frame without having nail or screws visible from the outside, I used an inside corner brace that I also purchased at Home Depot.  Its probably better to build the outside frame with a little wiggle room in order to allow the corner brace to fit inside with the floor board.  I also used a corner brace to attach the 2x4 supports as well.  Once this was complete, the bed was ready for stain.  Even though I know the majority of the floor board wouldn't be showing, I still stained it anyway and once dry did several coats of polycrylic in semigloss over it.

While I waited for the stain and poly to dry, I started working on the headboard.  First, I stapled batting to the headboard to give it a little more cushion.  I didn't put the batting all the way down to the floor but instead left about 5 inches to allow for it to be secured to the bed frame.  I covered the batting with a gray linen home décor fabric and secured with staples.  Side note, I love my pneumatic stapler and I can't believe I didn't buy one a long time ago instead of using my hand stapler!  I love the upholstered fabric look for headboards, but it was still a little too plain.  My new obsession is nailhead trim, which I decided to add to the headboards to give it a little something extra.  I cheated though, and bought nailhead trim on a roll.  Its much easier, you only need to hammer in nails every 5th one.  Its also thin enough that it can easily be cut to go around corners.  If the 5th nail didn't match up perfectly at the edges, I just used my hot glue gun to attach.  I was very careful about making sure to keep a straight line and equal distance from the edges.  Here is a picture of the headboard in progress:

I choose to assemble the headboard to the bed frame once they were both in the bedroom.  I simply drilled pilot holes in the headboard from the back and then drilled in 6 screws to keep the headboard in place.  I added felt pads to the bottom of the bed frame, and then put the mattress on.  The first thing the twins did when they saw their beds was jump on it like it was a trampoline, but I suspected that would happen.

I had been prepping the twins for their new beds for a few days, so they knew it was coming.  They watched us dismantle their cribs and assemble their new beds.  They were both very excited to be tucked into their new beds that night.  I moved the security camera into their room to monitor their newfound freedom.  I felt betrayed honestly.  They both went to bed so nicely and told me they loved me and said goodnight, and the second I shut their bedroom door they both got out of bed giggling and running around!  At one point there was a lot of dancing going on and then they decided they needed to "organize" their closet and remove all of the clothing and throw it in the middle of their bedroom.  I went in there several times asking them to go back to bed and even cleaned up all their clothes and zip tied the closet door shut.  Every time I went back in their room they made a beeline for their beds acting is if they had been in there the whole time, without any clue I had been watching them.  They finally feel asleep in their beds (even though it was a couple hours past bedtime) and I felt it was somewhat successful.  Until I got up in the morning and checked the camera to see them sleeping like this:

So I guess the moral of the whole blog post is disregard everything I just wrote, get rid of the cribs and just let the kids sleep on the floor, right????
Addy only had a minor issue the first night and after that slept great in her bed.  Jax seems to prefer the floor, as you can tell by the collage I put together of Jax during the first week:

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DIY Magnolia Wreath

DIY Magnolia wreath for less than $10!

Any Fixer Upper fans out there reading this?  I have to admit I'm a huge fan of the show.  I love Joanna's style.  I needed a new wreath for the front door of my house, and love the look of the magnolia wreath.  Although I don't love the price tag of the Magnolia Wreath for sale at Magnolia Market:

So I decided to make my own.  I'm pretty excited with how it turned out, and the low cost was worth the risk, which was even better.  I'm going to share how I created my own magnolia wreath.

Supply list:
Wire Wreath from Hobby Lobby
Magnolia Garland from Hobby Lobby
Green Painter's tape (or any type of tape, green preferred)
Hot glue gun


First I cut off all the individual leaves from the garland.  Then I wrapped the wreath wire frame in green painter's tape.  It doesn't have to look fancy, I just wanted to have more square footage to adhere the glue/leaves to.

I was then ready to start gluing the leaves on the wreath.  I just did the best placement I could, and added leaves to bare areas once the entire wreath was covered.  I tried to place the leaves in different directions while also doing my best to cover the green tape.

It didn't take me very long to finish, I worked on it during an episode of Fixer Upper and finished before the show ended.  I bought the wire frame using a coupon and the garland was 50% off.  I had the glue and tape on hand so the total cost was less than $10!  Here is the finished product hanging on my front door.

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How to Paint Wood Cabinets

First off, lets get to the good stuff.  Before and after pictures of my kitchen cabinets:

 

And just for fun, here is a before/during/after collage, paint makes such a huge difference!:

 

Now lets get to the details.  This is lengthy, but bear with me as there is a lot of information provided.  This is my method and what worked for me (and believe me I painted a lot of OAK cabinets!), but if you find something better that you prefer than go for it!  So, let’s just dive right in!

 

Prep:

I can’t stress enough how important this step is.  This step will most likely take you longer than the actual painting itself!  There is no such thing as “no prep painting”.  It is important to clean very well.  Paint will not stick to a dirty surface.  I recommend wiping down the wood with a cleaning solution and then letting it dry.  Then sand with a 220 sandpaper and wipe down again.  For very dirty wood like an old piece of furniture or kitchen cabinets, I would recommend using TSP substitute to clean with.

I find it easiest to remove all cabinet doors and drawers to paint.  It is extremely important to number each cabinet or drawer before you remove it so that you know where it goes when its time to put it back!  Especially for older wood, those pieces can sometimes warp on their hinges or in their drawer slot and won’t fit well anywhere else.

Tape and cover anything you don’t want to get paint on.  Be cautious of anything even remotely close if using a spray gun as there is a great chance of overspray.  Remove any hardware.  Take your time and be very thorough in the prep work.  The key to a job well done is all in the prep work and is important to have a professional finish.

 Priming:

I use BIN Shellac Primer when spraying, or General Finishes Stain Blocker when hand painting.  When painting oak, I always use 2 coats of primer because it really helps to fill in the grain.  After the prep work is done and the wood is dry, I apply the first coat of primer.  This can be done with either a spray gun, brush or foam roller.  With primer, I don’t think there is a major difference in the finish with whatever you choose.  Warning: my usual “panic” sets in after the first coat of primer goes on.  Primer usually looks horrible and with only one coat it is not completely covered so a lot of the wood still shows through.  Take a deep breath, walk away, and don’t worry ‘cause it will be okay!  Don’t put the first coat of primer on too thick, it is better to have several thin coats than one thick coat.  After the first coat of primer is dry (usually about 30-60 minutes), I inspect the surface of the wood to see if there are any cracks or chips in the wood that should be repaired.  If there is, I apply a wood filler and let it dry and then sand it down.  Then I apply a second coat of primer.  After the second coat of primer is dry I again sand to make it smooth with a 220 grit sandpaper.

 Painting:

When the primer is dry and sanded smooth it is time for paint!  This is the fun part where you will finally see progress and it gets exciting!  I use General Finishes Enduro White Poly paint for cabinets.  I have tried other brands but this is my preference for wood.  I like that it has a shorter dry time between coats compared to some other brands, it does not need a topcoat, and it is water based.  I prefer to paint cabinet doors with a spray gun, but if you don’t own a spray gun then a good brush (Zibra brushes are my favorite!) for any small detailed areas and a foam roller for any large smooth areas works fine.  Like the primer, it is better to apply a couple of thin coats rather than one thick coat to avoid drips.  If you happen to get a drip, and its still very wet you can try to smooth it out with the brush or roller.  Otherwise you can leave it and let it dry and then sand it smooth.  It is important to keep a “wet edge” with the paint and work as quickly as possible.  I typically only sand between coats of paint if there are any imperfections, otherwise I just dive right in to the second coat of paint after the suggested drying time has elapsed (review the can for more info).  I typically let the paint dry before removing painting tape, but I always use a utility knife to mark the edge of the tape so that it doesn’t peel the paint off along with the tape when removing.  If any touch ups are needed, I usually just use paint over the small touch up areas.  It is best to wait 48 hours at a minimum for the paint to dry before reattaching or putting anything on it.  Keep in mind paint usually takes a few weeks to fully cure, so be careful with freshly painted surfaces.

Protective Finish:

Polycrylic vs Polyurethane – the difference is that Polyurethane is typically used over stains whereas polycrylic is used over paints.  The reason being that Polyurethane is meant to yellow over time and polycrylic stays clear, so you would not want polyurethane to yellow over a fresh coat of white paint!  General Finishes is a great brand and they stand behind their products. I especially like the High Performance Top Coat. I believe applying poly is an optional step if using the paint that I referenced above.  Personally, I prefer to use a satin or semi-gloss over the cabinets and I have not had any issues with any chipping and is easy to wipe clean if there are any spills.

Helpful Hints:

• Always stir your paint before pouring from the paint can.  The color tends to settle on the bottom so stir really well

• There are ideal temperatures to paint in.  Consult the label on the paint can for exact information, but I believe it is 50-80 degrees and no humidity.  If you paint outside these guidelines you might expect slower drying times.
• If you are painting cabinet doors and remove from hinges, I always prop on scrap wood to keep them off the ground.
• Always paint the backside of the cabinet door first, this way you get the hang of it before you get to the "good" side and also when you flip the doors if there are any marks from the 2x4s they are on the backside so it is usually okay for small flaws.
• I rarely paint the inside of the cabinets or drawers unless they are in very bad shape and have a lot of stains.
• ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS use a mask if spraying paint!  The fumes are very strong and you want to protect your lungs!
• Off the shelf white can be too harsh of a white to use.  Sometimes an offwhite color is better for your home.  You would never be able to tell it is offwhite and will look much better.  Just trust me on this.
• Add water or accelerator to paint to help thin out the paint if needed.  This gives a much smoother finish and a little bit goes a long way.

 

Also, be sure to follow me on Facebook or Instagram to see more information and fun before/after pictures.

 

A Quick and Easy Way to Update your Fireplace

Like everything else in the house, my fireplace was very outdated.  It had ugly brass that I knew would need to be changed.  I found a very cheap and easy way to fix that quickly!  Unfortunately, I don’t have too many before/after pictures of mine, but I recently updated another fireplace using the same technique that I will share with you today!

I didn’t realize how easily the fireplaces can be disassembled.  Its very easy to remove the pieces in order to paint.  Here is the before picture of the fireplace that I updated.  See the shiny silver part?  The owner was not a fan of that and wanted it all black.

The first step is to remove the pieces that need to be painted.  In this case it was very simple, only the top and bottom pieces needed to be removed.  The top came off just by lifting up and pulling out.

The bottom came off easily by flipping it down (where you access the pilot light) and then unscrewing it from the hinge.  See what I mean, super easy!

The next step is to clean very well.  These pieces usually are very dusty and dirty.  After cleaning it off, I brought it to the garage and prepped for painting.  I used Rustoleum High Heat in black.  This can be found at Menards or Home Depot.  Its important to use the High Heat kind since the material to be painted is surrounding the fireplace, which can get hot.  After two quick coats and some drying time, it was ready to be put back together.

 

Now for the after picture!

 

Do you think this is something you plan to tackle in the near future?  I promise you won’t be disappointed.  And if you are my mom and reading this you may think, wow that fireplace really looks familiar.  Yes, being the sneaky good daughter that I am, I snuck into my mom’s home this weekend when I knew she was out of town and painted her fireplace.  She hasn’t mentioned it yet, so not sure if she noticed but if she is reading this blog I’m sure she will notice now!

Change your laminate countertops with PAINT!

When we bought our late 90’s house, I knew the first thing that we would change is the blue countertops.  You read that correctly.  BLUE.  I have no idea why, but the original owners of our house must have had a blue obsession, there was blue countertops, a blue ceiling fan in one of the bedrooms and two different types of blue carpeting upstairs and downstairs.  Here is a picture of the beauty we moved in to:

Within the first few months we replaced the blue countertops in the kitchen with granite.  And even though we completely hired out for the job, it wasn’t easy.  Now that its finished there are several things I would have done differently but that’s a different post.  Not to mention the kitchen becomes unusable for a week and during that time we had a makeshift kitchen in my laundry room.

 

The Laundry Room.  That’s where it all started.  The entire remodel process.  Looking back I’m not sure if my husband would have told me “fine, practice your makeover on the laundry room and if its successful then you can move on to the rest of the house”.  Cause that’s exactly what happened.  So, because we obviously had so much work to do on the rest of the house, we opted not to replace the blue countertops in the laundry room right away.  I thought to myself, “I wonder if I can paint that?” haha which by the way is a thought I have most of the time but this one took some research.

 

I found out its possible to paint your laminate countertops.  And what do I have to lose if I mess up blue countertops?  Either way it’s a bad outcome right?

 

I picked up a can of Rustoleum Countertop Paint from Home Depot.  The paint can be tinted to match one of several colors on the can, and I chose the color Putty which is a darker gray.  Even after purchasing the can of paint, painting tape, a mask, foam rollers, painting tray and foam brush, it was still a very cheap makeover at less than $40.

I started by really giving the countertops a good cleaning.  Its important to scrub them really well or the paint won’t hold up in the dirty spots.  Then I sanded the countertops with a 220 grit, and again wiped the countertops with a damp cloth to remove any trace of dust.  After it was all dry, I taped off the countertops to ensure that I wouldn’t get paint where I didn’t want it.  I used a foam roller to apply the paint and a foam brush for the edges and corners.  Don’t forget to use a mask!  The smell is horrible, far worse than any paint I have smelled before.  Luckily my laundry room has a window and even with it left wide open and the door closed it still stunk up the house.  That was probably the biggest drawback.  After 24 hours of applying the first coat, I applied a second coat in the same way.  I let it dry again for 24 hours and did two coats of polycrylic in semi-gloss with 2 hours of dry time in between coats.  I’m not sure that the polycrylic was necessary, but I used it anyway.

 

I painted my countertops over a year ago now.  During our entire house remodel, all of the tools were piled up in the laundry room on the countertops, filled with screws and nails and hammers and lots of sharp objects and I’m happy to say they have held up very well.  There are very few scratches and they are very small and not noticeable.  For a $40 transformation I think it was well worth it!  For the final reveal, here is the before and after:

 

And here is the Final Version after updating the Laundry room with fresh wall paint and cabinet paint: