Thursday, January 17, 2019

Thinking about having your cabinets painted?

Are you thinking about having your cabinets painted? Does your kitchen need an update? Are your existing cabinets in good shape but in need of a color change? Keep reading for more information on my process from start to finish that should help answer some of the most frequently asked questions I receive.




THE QUOTE PROCESS
First off, lets start with the quote process. I always give free estimates, so it can't hurt to ask! I will need several pictures of the kitchen as well as a count of the doors and drawers. I also need to know if the drawer face comes off and if any repairs are needed or if you have any damaged areas. The reason I need to know if the drawer face is removable is because it saves me time in painting the drawer, as I don't need to wrap the drawer to prevent overspray getting inside the drawer. If the drawer face comes off it saves me time which means it saves you money, but if it doesn't come off that's okay too.

A general idea of how you want your cabinets refinished is good to know. Its helpful if you have inspiration pictures too. You don't need to know the exact color, just in general are you thinking white or a lighter color or going dark or maybe a two tone look? Staining is an option as well but does come with a bigger price tag.

My estimate always includes the cost of supplies - paint, primer, sealer, sandpaper, cleaning supplies, etc. The quote does not include additional costs such as if you wanted to change out the hardware or if you need to fill any holes to allow for new hardware, matching a specific color from a certain brand, etc. I am always willing to provide those estimates if you let me know upfront. If you just want a basic quote to get started I can give you the standard price and we can go from there.


DISCOUNT AVAILABLE


The quote you receive will have two different pricing options. I offer a discount for the homeowners if they choose to remove the doors and drawers and then do the installation themselves.  This saves me time and of course saves you money.  I'm more than happy to remove the doors and drawers for you if you select that option, but I will say that the majority of my clients are willing to do it themselves to save on the cost. Its easy enough to do and I help walk you through how to label each door and drawer so that you can identify where it goes when its time to install. Basically, you would just use painters tape to number each door and drawer and apply it to the removable item, and also painters tape with the coordinating number which would remain on the permanent structure somewhere inside the cabinet or drawer frame.


If you decide to move forward with the quoted price, we will set a date to meet in person in your home. We will review the contract together, look at sample boards, take before pictures, and collect a $500 deposit fee which is required in order to get you on the calendar. Once I receive the deposit this is when the date is confirmed. This ensures that your date gets locked in, and gives both of us an agreement that the work will be started then. Of course I understand if an emergency comes up and it needs to get moved, but please keep in mind that cabinets require a large block of time in my calendar and its harder to move dates around at the last minute.


I use General Finishes enduro poly commercial grade products, and stick with their milk paint line of colors. The most popular cabinet colors are White Poly (true white), Antique White (offwhite) and Alabaster (a mix of true white and Antique white). Most of my clients choose one of the white colors for their main cabinets, and use other colors as an accent for the island or similar.  If you can't decide on the spot, you can keep a few of the sample boards which are actual oak cabinet doors so that you can see the color in different light throughout the day. Color matching to any Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore is always an option as well.
Also its important to note that I can not completely eliminate the grain in oak, but the painting process does a very good job of filling in the grain. This will be shown to you on the sample cabinets.



IN HOME PAINTING
I always hand paint the frames of the cabinets, unless requested to have them sprayed. The advantage is that its costs less, and you are able to keep your items in your cabinets - I just ask that you push everything back out of the way. To prepare for my arrival, it is helpful if you are able to move any items out of the way that may be in the way of the painting the cabinets. Removing larger items from the countertops is helpful. If you can relocate the refrigerator, stove and range that is a huge help. If not, I can work around it and we can discuss in detail at the consultation.


When I arrive I will start by either removing and labeling the cabinet doors or if you have already done this I will load them into my vehicle. Next I get to work on cleaning the cabinets. Prep is an important step in the paint adhering, so I make sure the cabinets are clean. Then I sand the cabinet frames in order to give the paint a better grip. The cabinets are once again cleaned and wiped down. At this point, I start taping off any areas that need to be protected from paint. Once all of the prep work is done, the priming process starts. In general, the second day will be priming.  The third day will be painting. The fourth day will be painting and touch ups/tape removal. In total, as a minimum there are 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint applied. On the final day at your home when the painting is done I remove all the tape and clean up any areas. It is helpful if you have any additional wall paint on hand, I can touch up any spots that the tape may have removed if any.

I am typically in home for 3-5 days. Your cabinets are still usable during this time but won't have any doors on them. The paint is dry to touch after an hour or two. They will need a full 28 days for the paint to fully cure however.




OFFSITE PAINTING
After the cabinet doors are removed, I take them to my workshop for the prep work and painting. I do this because my workshop is equipped with my spray booth and cabinet door drying rack. The doors are first prepped (clean, sand, clean) and then the inside of the cabinet doors are sprayed with two coats of primer and three coats of paint. After sufficient drying time, they are flipped and the same process is used on the door fronts. Spraying the doors leaves a nice smooth finish.

Once both sides of the doors have been painted, I contact the homeowner to arrange a day and time to drop off and install if necessary.  The doors typically take about 7 days to finish once they are removed from the home.


When I drop off the doors and drawers I always bring touch up paint for the homeowner in case something happens down the road or in the time it takes for the paint to cure. Its helpful to know that you are able to touch up anything in case life happens. I will also provide door bumper pads, as the previous ones are always removed before painting (and in most cases they are brown anyway) so new white or clear pads are provided.


I will also ask if I can take pictures once its all put back together. This is optional, but always nice to see the difference in before and after pictures!


Having your cabinets painted is a great way to update your home! Its also helpful to know that the process doesn't take as long as you may think, and having your cabinets refinished can be affordable. I hope this post answers any questions you may have, or helps to understand the process better.


Edit: New services offered include replacement doors and drawers and/or concealed hinges. Ask me if this is an option for your home! Also, another option is being offered where you can save money on your cabinet refinishing by painting the frames yourself, with my step by step process and guidance. Learn more about the process in this blog post.


Want to see more inspiration?  Follow me on Instagram or Facebook.





Thursday, January 3, 2019

Home Gym DIY Tips



Happy New Year everyone!  My name is Ben and I am the husband of the famous Jess of Flipping Unbelievable.  Jess has graciously let me guest blog today to talk about one of the few areas left in the house that hasn’t been magically transformed into an HGTV-ready set-piece.  I would like to share with you tips and tricks for changing the nether region of your basement into a guy home-gym.

We already had most of the equipment shown in these photographs but they were spread haphazardly across the basement and were seldom used because it was not a pleasant environment to work out.  The first step was cleaning and organizing the basement so that we could rip out a whole wall of shelves. The first picture is the finished main area.  The second picture above is a secondary space but you get a good sense of the before and after.  I added additional lighting as well so it didn't look like a dank basement of despair.

We used the remaining wood shelving brackets to mount mirrors.  Mirrors are key, they help you perfect your form and see your results from working out, which is why professional gyms have them everywhere.   Mirrors can be found on the curb, on Craigslist, or they can be leftovers when you wife remodels every bathroom in the house.



Rubber floors are also crucial. There is nothing worse than the sound of metal weights hitting concrete in the middle of a deadlift.  This was the most expensive component of the home gym (about $2.80 per SF) but is totally necessary.  Although expensive, they are readily available at any improvement store and come in interlocking squares.  Skill level:  Literally Toddler.   My 4-year son put the flooring in with me, he thought it was a puzzle.



I can’t say enough about these cup holders.  Jess complained about her water bottle rattling in the treadmill cupholder so I was going to build a nice platform to put stuff on.  I wandered around Menards for an hour and then I had an epiphany.  These cupholders can be found in the automotive section and were like a buck apiece.  And duct tape is basically free so this was a very cost effective solution to our problem.   I recommend adding cup holders to every pole in your house.  Not only are they practical but they look great!



The entertainment center includes a power strip, bluetooth speaker, and cable TV.  I mounted the TV on a swivel bracket so you can watch it on the treadmill or in the weight room section.  Having a TV is a must-have luxury, it creates the same ambiance as a professional gym.  The beauty of the home gym is that there are no retirees forcing you to watch Fox News while you get your sweat on.

Finally, you have to name your gym. Naming your home gym is quite easy.  Feel free to experiment with the following Mad-Libs, any combination from each column will work.

Column 1                                         Column 2      Column 3
            Your First Name                               Iron                 Works       
            Your Last Name                               Pain                Station
            Your Street Name                            Sweat             Zone
            Your City Name                               Muscle           Factory
            Mascot of Your Alma Mater             Meat               Castle

Jess offered to make me a sign to christen the new gym space.  I told her to make me a sign that looks like it was forged in the fiery pits of Mordor.  This included not using some lame font.  

She understood exactly what I was looking for. We got some excess metal at Re-Store.  Then she sprayed black letters using a block font stencil and added fake rivets.  It looks pretty good.




So there you have it.  A DIY guide for creating the perfect space to plan on performing squats on a routine basis but ultimately doing a few bicep curls before hitting the beach in the summer time.  Enjoy!